Services: 7/10
Le Du or ฤดู in Thai, meaning "season", was recently lauched in November 2013 by two young partners: Chef Ton and Khun Tao. The menu of Le Du is created by Chef Ton and Chef Tae. Both young chefs learnt their cooking skill from the Culinary Institute of America in USA and had a few years of experience in Michelin starred restaurants in USA. In addition, Chef Ton himself is also a certified sommelier and does pick range of wine himself. When I came across this restaurant, I decided that I have to give it a go. What really fascinating is their philosophy of cooking, they try to use ingredients that are available locally and use Thai ingredients and herbs to inspire their dishes. When combining with Western cooking technique, they can be fancy and delicious.
This place is hidden in Soi Silom 7 and is pretty close to Trinity Building. Please be warned that there will be no parking space available for Le Du visitors so you will have to park at Trinity Building. During daytime, Soi Silom 7 will be very busy and crowded with office staffs and street food. However, for night time diners, you may be lucky to get a parking space along the street. Anyway, the most convenient way to come here is via BTS and it is Chong Nonsi station.
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| Le Du Wine Bar and Restaurant @ Silom, Bangkok |
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| Chef Ton and Khun Tao - the two partners |
The restaurant is not large with probably around 30 seats. The kitchen is only parted from dining room by window glass. Hence, you can clearly watch cooks perform their skill. For menu, they are targeting to change every a few months so what I review here might not be available when you visit. The dinner menu comprises of 4 sections: Cold and Raw, from the Reef, from the Ranch, and Sin (dessert). You may also go for tasting menus at the price of THB990 for 4 courses and THB1,590 for 7 courses. Wine pairing for tasting menu is also available at the same price: i.e. 4 glasses for THB990 and 7 glasses for THB1,590. Lunch menu, on the other hand, is different in style. They tend to be more easily approachable and quick such as salads and pastas.
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| the bar |
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| general atmosphere |
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| relaxing place : can be good for friends gathering |
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| the kitchen |
For the night alone, I began with
cured wild bass with rose apple, cilantro meringue, cucumber, and lime granita (7/10). This starter was mild and cold. The freshness of sea bass paired well with sweetness of apple and refreshing cilantro and cucumber. Lime granita provided tanginess and mildness of sour. I found that the granita was a bit lumpy whilst it should be finely grated ice. If the taste was a little stronger, I would like it even more. Otherwise, really enjoyable.
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| cured wild bass with rose apple, cilantro meringue, cucumber, and lime granita (THB200) |
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| top angle of the beautiful presentation |
My course was then followed by
seared grouper with bacon XO, celery emulsion, compressed celery, puffed rice, galangal nage (6/10). I think this can be a really nice dish. The grouper was delicately cooked with the skin so crisp. Puffed rice gave a good impression and was fun to eat. The infused aroma was the key character here. Nice and herbal bouquet that fused well between Eastern style and Western touch. The bacon XO was, however, too salty. It kind of ruined the overall picture. I wish the dish was less salty and this would be so wonderful.
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| seared grouper with bacon XO, celery emulsion, compressed celery, puffed rice, galangal nage (THB350) |
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| pouring the broth |
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| again, nice presentation |
Lastly, the dessert was
chocolate x chocolate x chocolate (8/10). Basically, it was three kinds of chocolate in a plate: baked lava chocolate, crunchy chocolate, and crispy balled chocolate. It gave the all in one touch. Soft and warm chocolate lava was balanced with crunchy and crispy chocolate whilst meringue played the cold role. The chocolate was rich and thick as well as not overly sweeten.
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| chocolate x chocolate x chocolate (THB270) |
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| SIN with god blood |
Along the courses, I also had a glass of white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, to go with fish dishes and a glass of tempranillo base to pair with dessert. The white was
Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Marlborough (THB290, 88pts). Price of wine by glass for table wines was not at all cheap but let put that aside. This sauvignon blanc was spicy and herbaceous. It exhibited tangy acidity which infused with grapefruit and lemon flavour. A good table wine, it is. For the red, it was
Enate Tempranillo 2011 from Somontano, Spain (THB290, 89pts). I rather like this tempranillo based red wine with some blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. It was medium in the body with fine tannins. Sweet and spicy on the palate and showed loads of fruit characters.
Le Du, in overall, is an exciting restaurant that is full of energy and passion of youngsters. Each dish may not yet be so perfect. But I would not be surprise to see its quick development and become famous in the future. I am, personally, looking forward to revisiting this small restaurant, Le Du, in a small corner of busy Silom. Bon Appetit!!!!
