Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Sühring @ Yen Akat, Bangkok - ซูห์ริง @ ซอยเย็นอากาศ กรุงเทพฯ

Cuisine: Modern German
Charged Price: THB4,500 per person
Visited: 30 May 2016
Food: 7/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Value for money: 5/10
Services: 6/10
Scale: [1=poor ---- 5=average/standard ---- 10=outstanding/exceptional]

Suhring, a modern German cuisine run by Suhring brothers, launched epically during early 2016. I believe Suhring is under the same group of sponsors as the famous Gaggan. That explains implicitly the logic behind its style of food. Without doubt, food here come in those small portions and presented using modern technique.

Personally, this is my first chance to visit this place and it was during Albert Bichot wine dinner. The overall impression with this place was good but not great. Some dishes were delicious but some missed elements here and there. But the wine were definitely gorgeous. Apart from food, I have to admit that the ambient of this place is really lovely. It is a house-converted restaurant. It is spacious and with beautiful garden. The downside about this place is its location. It is nowhere near public transport access point. Hence, driving or taxi remain your only choices. For those who drive, beware of limited parking space. Otherwise, you will have to park along the Soi.

Sühring @ Yen Akat, Bangkok

a beautiful house of the restaurant

spectacular seats within the glass house area

the dining hall

As for wine, the line up for the night were:

Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis 1er Cru les Vaucoupins 2013 (92/100): Lovely Chablis with early access. Fresh with white fruits elements.

Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne Monopole 2007 (93/100): Richer and deeper than the former one. Notes of mineral and floral. Wine for food it is.

Chateau Gris Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2011 (93/100): Sweet black fruits and oak harmony. Perfect for meat dishes. Expect more in a few years time.

Domaine du Pavillon Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Clos des Marechaudes 2013 (93/100): Opulent with earth and fruit forward. Give it time to reveal its class.

Domaine du Clos Frantin Echezeaux Grand Cru 2012 (94/100): Definitely harmony in the glass. But it is a long way for this guy before full enjoyment.

Albert Bichot line up for the night

The dinner started with those small bites / snacks / amuse bouche (or whatever you may call). Spiced Tomato Cracker with Fermented Garlic (7/10) did show nice taste of tomato along with spices but Avocado, Smoked Eel and Horseradish (7/10) was somewhat confusing. It was delicious but could not really detect the distinct character of avocado and eel. On the other hand, Frankfurter Grüne Soße (6/10) was presented gorgeously but the taste did live up with its look in my humble view. Taste of herb, yes. Unbalance, yes also. As for, Duck Liver, Chicken Skin, and Sea Buckthorn (6/10), the sea buckthorn was the weak link in this case. It didn't seem to pair well with pate though the overall texture was lovely.

Spiced Tomato Cracker with Fermented Garlic | Avocado, Smoked Eel and Horseradish

Frankfurter Grüne Soße

Duck Liver, Chicken Skin, and Sea Buckthorn

The last nibble came with a more fruitful size: Pork Knuckle Sandwich, Sauerkraut, and Marjoram (7/10). Rather nice actually. A bit of sauerkraut would be even better. Tender texture with flavourful taste. Moving on to a more proper size dish. Simmentaler Roast Beef, Pickled Mackerel, Capers, Beetroot, and Apple (7/10) would be a lovely one if it had come without mackerel. The combination of beef and mackerel in the same plate seemed confusing though the beetroot and apple cut well through fattiness of beef. The strange thing is this dish was paired with Chablis. Not a perfect pair but interesting. Then we had a plate to share: Cold Cuts & Pickles: German Rustic Sour Dough + Cultured Butter + Griebenschmalz | Soft-Pretzel + Obatzda (8/10). Wonderful indeed. The sour dough was outstanding. I would not pay much attention on sauces here: cultured butter, griebenschmalz, and obatzda. I think when the bread is nice, just plain butter could already bring you to heaven so as cold cuts.

Pork Knuckle Sandwich, Sauerkraut, and Marjoram

Simmentaler Roast Beef, Pickled Mackerel, Capers, Beetroot, and Apple

Cold Cuts & Pickles

building up

Moving on to heavier dishes. Celeriac Tortellini with Summer Truffle (9/10) would be the highlight of the meal in my view. Beautiful aroma of truffle. The tortellini was as well perfectly executed. Love this one. It seems the Italian dish performed much better than the German ones tonight. Next was Hungarian Duck Roasted on the Bone, Pumpkin and Lavender Jus (9/10) which was almost equally great as the tortellini. Flavourful and tender. Sweetness of pumpkin also cut through the flavour of jus well. Execution and ingredients are the keys here, I think. For lamb dish, it was Salt Meadow Lamb from Piet Van Den Berg, Beans, Saffron, and Herbs (7/10). Not extraordinary but enjoyable here. Honestly, saffron is too elegant and it looked as though unique aroma of lamb overwhelmed the great saffron here.

Celeriac Tortellini with Summer Truffle

Hungarian Duck Roasted on the Bone, Pumpkin and Lavender Jus

Salt Meadow Lamb from Piet Van Den Berg

Here comes the dessert. I have to say that dessert were superb here. Both Buttermilk, Cucumber, Gin, and Tonic (8/10) and Waldorf Salad (9/10) were just delicious. The cucumber one cleansed the palate pretty well. So simple, classic, and refreshing. For waldorf salad, this was a great transformation from salad to dessert. Freshness is the key, again. The crumb added 3rd dimension to creaminess of dessert. The meal then ended with a small bite of doughnut (if I recall correctly).

All in all, this is a restaurant for experience but not for often visit in my view. Nice and enjoyable but it lacks here and there and the meal can be very long.

Buttermilk, Cucumber, Gin, and Tonic

Waldorf Salad

petit fours (doughnut?)

Sühring @ Yen Akat, Bangkok - ซูห์ริง @ ซอยเย็นอากาศ กรุงเทพฯ
10 Soi Yen Akat 3
Chong Nonsi, Yan Nawa
Bangkok 10120

Open Hours: daily from 06:00pm - 11:00pm for dinner
Tel: +66 (0) 2287 1799

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