Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Paste : Innovation Thai Eating House @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok

Cuisine: Thai
Price: THB900 per person without alcohol (what we paid for)
Visited: 4 December 2013
Food: 8/10
Atmosphere: 6/10
Value for money: 7/10
Services: 8/10

It is January 1 2014 today, so, Happy New Year everyone. Allow me perhaps to walk you through briefly with an interesting Thai restaurant for such new year.

The first time I came across this restaurant, Paste : Innovation Thai Eating House @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok, was at the time of my visit to Casa Lapin X49. Paste is located in the same Soi as Casa Lapin X49, which is opposite of Samitivej Hospital, and is a mere 10 meters away. Spotting on the sign "Innovation Thai Eating House", I thought loudly to myself "interesting but would it worth a try?". Thus, I went back and did some research and found really good feedback, especially from foreigners/travellers. There sure must be something good, so, here we come the try.

The restaurant itself is just a small semi-detached building which can probably accommodate at the maximum but comfortably of 20 guests. I would not suggest to pay much attention on the interior decoration. It is at least decent enough and is kept simply but contemporary. However, it is not the kind of grand nor elegant. There is a bar on the first floor. As you sit, you can also look through the half-open kitchen to observe chefs performing the magic. At the night of our visit, there was only 1 staff but friendly and polite. Chef Bongkoch did come out and took order herself. Really good recommendation and friendly style. The place was not crowded during the course so leaving some doubt for me whether the service would be efficient if the place is pack and there is only 1 staff.

Paste : Innovation Thai Eating House @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok

small but cosy indeed

decor is kept simple

just another corner

I have to mention a bit on chefs. Paste was originally established by two chefs: Chef Bongkoch and Chef Jason. Not much to my surprise to see a non-Thai chef cooking tremendous Thai food these days. What we love about Paste is the way they cook. Nothing too excessive in terms of flavour, balance in fact but plenty of herbal touch without too much heat and spiciness. The style is also wonderful. I would use the word "creation" rather than "fusion". It is not fusion but more like adjusting cooking method and ingredients whilst preserving the authenticity and traditional feel. Ingredients are mostly organic and from local. With the background of Chef Bongkoch and the experience of Chef Jason with one of the best known Thai restaurant "SaNguan Sri", they sure guarantee you a level of satisfaction.

Chef Bongkoch and Chef Jason

contact, just in case you need it

Menu at Paste is clearly defined into sections: entrees, slow cooked meats, fishes, curries, and etc. Price ranges from around THB200 plus/minus for entrees to around THB500-600 for a main course. Rice is charged as per head at the price of THB50 (organic jasmine flower perfumed rice - ข้าวหุงน้ำหอมมะลิ). The overall pricing is as high as those from Thai restaurant in hotels such as Smooth Curry at Plaza Athenee Bangkok and Basil at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit or the famous celebrity cuisine Bo.Lan at Sukhumvit 26. As for wine list, most of them are light white such as riesling and sauvignon blanc which can be paired well with strong herbal taste like Thai food. There are also some red wine selection which mainly comprises of light pinot noir and fruity merlot. Nevertheless, mark up price for wine here can be excessive, at least to my sense.

There were three of us during the night so we had 4 dishes (n+1 formula). The first one was from the entree menu: dry spiced chilli squid with sweet vinegar and fresh tomato relish - ปลาหมึกทอดเสิร์ฟกับซอสน้ำส้มหวานและมะเขือเทศบด (7/10). With a touch of lime, we think that this dish was the most enjoyable of the night. It may not be the most sophisticated nor elegant but it was fun to eat it. The squid was tender whilst the outer layer was a bit of crisp texture. The tomato relish was full of herbal touch. The balance between sour and sweetness was magnificent.

The next one to arrive was from fish menu: steamed wild seabass fillet with longan honey, fennel, and lemongrass "Lon" sauce - หลนปลากะพงใส่น้ำผึ้ง เฟนเนล ขมิ้นขาว และตะไคร้ (8/10). Lon is typically a kind of sauce or condiment to be eaten with various vegetables and is usually made by reducing coconut milk, herbs, minced shrimp or other ingredients. It would be served as a kind of starter. However, it is another story at Paste. Lon here is created to be eaten a main dish with rice. So much spices were presented. The sour taste and lemongrass aroma led the overall impression which was followed by a touch of sweetness on the palate. If the fillet texture was cooked a touch under to give smoother and softer bite, this would have been a memorable one.


dry spiced chilli squid with sweet vinegar and fresh tomato relish (THB280)

steamed wild seabass fillet with longan honey, fennel, and lemongrass "Lon" sauce (THB550)

Moving on to meat dishes. From the curries range, we had slow cooked Australian beef cheek with fresh curry paste, pickled garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and dry spices (Hang Lay Curry) - แกงฮังเลเนื้อแก้มวัวออสเตรเลีย (8/10). As a lover of northern style curry "Hang Lay Curry", I did not hesitate to order this at all. I love the rich flavour but well weighted: the saltiness, the sour, the sweetness, and the spices touch are all there. The texture was thick and fine. The beef was indeed tender. It was also well presented. Oh, almost forget the nutty flavour and texture that brought another dimension to the dish (if I was not mistaken ^^).

Lastly, we had master stock poached organic pork with avocado, red grapefruit, toasted sticky rice, and local Thai flowers  - หมูตุ๋นเสิร์ฟกับอโวคาโด เกรฟฟรุ๊ต ข้าวพอง และดอกไม้ไทย (8/10). This dish was a beautiful one. The poached pork was tender but sweet; a little bit too sweet to my liking actually. But you have to take the pork together with grapefruit, the toasted sticky rice, and avocado. The tanginess of grapefruit cut out some of sweetness whilst sticky rice gave cracked fun texture and avocado added creamy touch. I would say that this a one "should try" dish: wonderful and tasty on its own.

slow cooked Australian beef cheek with fresh curry paste, pickled garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and dry spices (THB480)

one more view of Hang Lay Curry

master stock poached organic pork with avocado, red grapefruit, toasted sticky rice, and local Thai flowers (THB450)

poached organic pork with hang lay curry background

Finally, it is dessert. Though, we were really full, we thought at least we should try one. Without much expectation, we ordered black sticky rice with fresh coconut cream and free range egg custard and coconut ice-cream - สังขยาข้าวเหนียวดำเสิร์ฟกับไอศครีมกะทิ (7/10). It was simply the traditional coconut custard on top of black sticky rice in triangular shape like cake served with coconut ice-cream and coconut milk sauce. Ok, I like this dessert. The classic combination of coconut custard (สังขยา) with soft black stick rice are always all time people favourite.

Well, the overall impression with Paste, for us, is definitely beyond the famous "Bo.Lan @ Sukhumvit 26". Whilst dishes are nice in its own style (though I prefer the aromatic and herbal flavour of Paste), the differences are friendliness and services that come at Paste. We would sure be returning to Paste from time to time (if it does not yet break my wallet). This is a highly recommended restaurant by us "DeadlyChubby" (^.^).

black sticky rice with fresh coconut cream and free range egg custard and coconut ice-cream (THB220)

one more picture with dishes together (^^)

Paste @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok
120/6 Soi Sukhumvit 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital)
Sukhumvit Road
Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
Bangkok 10110
Thailand

Open Hours: lunch from 12:00pm - 02:30pm Wed-Sun and dinner from 06:00pm - 11:00pm Tue-Sun

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