Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Le Du Wine Bar and Restaurant @ Silom, Bangkok

Cuisine: French / International
Price: THB1,700 per person (what we paid for)
Visited: 23 December 2013
Food: 7/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Value for money: 8/10
Services: 7/10

Le Du or ฤดู in Thai, meaning "season", was recently lauched in November 2013 by two young partners: Chef Ton and Khun Tao. The menu of Le Du is created by Chef Ton and Chef Tae. Both young chefs learnt their cooking skill from the Culinary Institute of America in USA and had a few years of experience in Michelin starred restaurants in USA. In addition, Chef Ton himself is also a certified sommelier and does pick range of wine himself. When I came across this restaurant, I decided that I have to give it a go. What really fascinating is their philosophy of cooking, they try to use ingredients that are available locally and use Thai ingredients and herbs to inspire their dishes. When combining with Western cooking technique, they can be fancy and delicious.

This place is hidden in Soi Silom 7 and is pretty close to Trinity Building. Please be warned that there will be no parking space available for Le Du visitors so you will have to park at Trinity Building. During daytime, Soi Silom 7 will be very busy and crowded with office staffs and street food. However, for night time diners, you may be lucky to get a parking space along the street. Anyway, the most convenient way to come here is via BTS and it is Chong Nonsi station.

Le Du Wine Bar and Restaurant @ Silom, Bangkok

Chef Ton and Khun Tao - the two partners

The restaurant is not large with probably around 30 seats. The kitchen is only parted from dining room by window glass. Hence, you can clearly watch cooks perform their skill. For menu, they are targeting to change every a few months so what I review here might not be available when you visit. The dinner menu comprises of 4 sections: Cold and Raw, from the Reef, from the Ranch, and Sin (dessert). You may also go for tasting menus at the price of THB990 for 4 courses and THB1,590 for 7 courses. Wine pairing for tasting menu is also available at the same price: i.e. 4 glasses for THB990 and 7 glasses for THB1,590. Lunch menu, on the other hand, is different in style. They tend to be more easily approachable and quick such as salads and pastas.

the bar

general atmosphere

relaxing place : can be good for friends gathering

the kitchen

For the night alone, I began with cured wild bass with rose apple, cilantro meringue, cucumber, and lime granita (7/10). This starter was mild and cold. The freshness of sea bass paired well with sweetness of apple and refreshing cilantro and cucumber. Lime granita provided tanginess and mildness of sour. I found that the granita was a bit lumpy whilst it should be finely grated ice. If the taste was a little stronger, I would like it even more. Otherwise, really enjoyable.

cured wild bass with rose apple, cilantro meringue, cucumber, and lime granita (THB200)

top angle of the beautiful presentation

My course was then followed by seared grouper with bacon XO, celery emulsion, compressed celery, puffed rice, galangal nage (6/10). I think this can be a really nice dish. The grouper was delicately cooked with the skin so crisp. Puffed rice gave a good impression and was fun to eat. The infused aroma was the key character here. Nice and herbal bouquet that fused well between Eastern style and Western touch. The bacon XO was, however, too salty. It kind of ruined the overall picture. I wish the dish was less salty and this would be so wonderful.

seared grouper with bacon XO, celery emulsion, compressed celery, puffed rice, galangal nage (THB350)

pouring the broth

again, nice presentation

Lastly, the dessert was chocolate x chocolate x chocolate (8/10). Basically, it was three kinds of chocolate in a plate: baked lava chocolate, crunchy chocolate, and crispy balled chocolate. It gave the all in one touch. Soft and warm chocolate lava was balanced with crunchy and crispy chocolate whilst meringue played the cold role. The chocolate was rich and thick as well as not overly sweeten.

chocolate x chocolate x chocolate (THB270)

SIN with god blood

Along the courses, I also had a glass of white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, to go with fish dishes and a glass of tempranillo base to pair with dessert. The white was Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Marlborough (THB290, 88pts). Price of wine by glass for table wines was not at all cheap but let put that aside. This sauvignon blanc was spicy and herbaceous. It exhibited tangy acidity which infused with grapefruit and lemon flavour. A good table wine, it is. For the red, it was Enate Tempranillo 2011 from Somontano, Spain (THB290, 89pts). I rather like this tempranillo based red wine with some blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. It was medium in the body with fine tannins. Sweet and spicy on the palate and showed loads of fruit characters.

Le Du, in overall, is an exciting restaurant that is full of energy and passion of youngsters. Each dish may not yet be so perfect. But I would not be surprise to see its quick development and become famous in the future. I am, personally, looking forward to revisiting this small restaurant, Le Du, in a small corner of busy Silom. Bon Appetit!!!!

Le Du Wine Bar and Restaurant @ Silom, Bangkok
399/3 Soi Silom 7
Silom Road
Bangrak
Bangkok 10500
Thailand

Open Hours: lunch Mon-Fri from 11:30am - 02:30pm and dinner Mon-Sat from 06:00pm - 11:00pm
Tel: +66 (0) 83 073 6860, +66 (0) 81 562 6464
Webhttp://www.ledubkk.com/
FBhttps://www.facebook.com/LeDuWineBarandrestaurant

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Zuani Vigne Collio Bianco DOC 2012

Date of Tasting: 13 November 2013
Wine Type: White
Grape Varieties: blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio
Alcohol: 13%
Origin: Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Appellation: Collio Goriziano DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata)
Expect to Pay: ~ THB900 - 1,200
Web: http://www.zuanivini.it/
Chubby Score: 90/100
Value for money: 7/10
Professional Rating: n.a.



Appearance: bright yellow straw
Aroma: fruity and rich complex aroma
Palate: ripe citrus fruits and peach with herbal notes, shy floral tone, fresh acidity and mineral to balance, medium on the body and length

Zuani Vigne Collio Bianco 2012 is such an interesting white wine that can be paired well with either pasta or pizza. I had come across this wine a few times and pretty much like it. The soft touch and lingering fruits seem to play well with packed fruit flavour. Each of the components plays its role wonderfully: singing and harmonious. It is pretty nice at this stage should live easily another 5 years or so.

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Paste : Innovation Thai Eating House @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok

Cuisine: Thai
Price: THB900 per person without alcohol (what we paid for)
Visited: 4 December 2013
Food: 8/10
Atmosphere: 6/10
Value for money: 7/10
Services: 8/10

It is January 1 2014 today, so, Happy New Year everyone. Allow me perhaps to walk you through briefly with an interesting Thai restaurant for such new year.

The first time I came across this restaurant, Paste : Innovation Thai Eating House @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok, was at the time of my visit to Casa Lapin X49. Paste is located in the same Soi as Casa Lapin X49, which is opposite of Samitivej Hospital, and is a mere 10 meters away. Spotting on the sign "Innovation Thai Eating House", I thought loudly to myself "interesting but would it worth a try?". Thus, I went back and did some research and found really good feedback, especially from foreigners/travellers. There sure must be something good, so, here we come the try.

The restaurant itself is just a small semi-detached building which can probably accommodate at the maximum but comfortably of 20 guests. I would not suggest to pay much attention on the interior decoration. It is at least decent enough and is kept simply but contemporary. However, it is not the kind of grand nor elegant. There is a bar on the first floor. As you sit, you can also look through the half-open kitchen to observe chefs performing the magic. At the night of our visit, there was only 1 staff but friendly and polite. Chef Bongkoch did come out and took order herself. Really good recommendation and friendly style. The place was not crowded during the course so leaving some doubt for me whether the service would be efficient if the place is pack and there is only 1 staff.

Paste : Innovation Thai Eating House @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok

small but cosy indeed

decor is kept simple

just another corner

I have to mention a bit on chefs. Paste was originally established by two chefs: Chef Bongkoch and Chef Jason. Not much to my surprise to see a non-Thai chef cooking tremendous Thai food these days. What we love about Paste is the way they cook. Nothing too excessive in terms of flavour, balance in fact but plenty of herbal touch without too much heat and spiciness. The style is also wonderful. I would use the word "creation" rather than "fusion". It is not fusion but more like adjusting cooking method and ingredients whilst preserving the authenticity and traditional feel. Ingredients are mostly organic and from local. With the background of Chef Bongkoch and the experience of Chef Jason with one of the best known Thai restaurant "SaNguan Sri", they sure guarantee you a level of satisfaction.

Chef Bongkoch and Chef Jason

contact, just in case you need it

Menu at Paste is clearly defined into sections: entrees, slow cooked meats, fishes, curries, and etc. Price ranges from around THB200 plus/minus for entrees to around THB500-600 for a main course. Rice is charged as per head at the price of THB50 (organic jasmine flower perfumed rice - ข้าวหุงน้ำหอมมะลิ). The overall pricing is as high as those from Thai restaurant in hotels such as Smooth Curry at Plaza Athenee Bangkok and Basil at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit or the famous celebrity cuisine Bo.Lan at Sukhumvit 26. As for wine list, most of them are light white such as riesling and sauvignon blanc which can be paired well with strong herbal taste like Thai food. There are also some red wine selection which mainly comprises of light pinot noir and fruity merlot. Nevertheless, mark up price for wine here can be excessive, at least to my sense.

There were three of us during the night so we had 4 dishes (n+1 formula). The first one was from the entree menu: dry spiced chilli squid with sweet vinegar and fresh tomato relish - ปลาหมึกทอดเสิร์ฟกับซอสน้ำส้มหวานและมะเขือเทศบด (7/10). With a touch of lime, we think that this dish was the most enjoyable of the night. It may not be the most sophisticated nor elegant but it was fun to eat it. The squid was tender whilst the outer layer was a bit of crisp texture. The tomato relish was full of herbal touch. The balance between sour and sweetness was magnificent.

The next one to arrive was from fish menu: steamed wild seabass fillet with longan honey, fennel, and lemongrass "Lon" sauce - หลนปลากะพงใส่น้ำผึ้ง เฟนเนล ขมิ้นขาว และตะไคร้ (8/10). Lon is typically a kind of sauce or condiment to be eaten with various vegetables and is usually made by reducing coconut milk, herbs, minced shrimp or other ingredients. It would be served as a kind of starter. However, it is another story at Paste. Lon here is created to be eaten a main dish with rice. So much spices were presented. The sour taste and lemongrass aroma led the overall impression which was followed by a touch of sweetness on the palate. If the fillet texture was cooked a touch under to give smoother and softer bite, this would have been a memorable one.


dry spiced chilli squid with sweet vinegar and fresh tomato relish (THB280)

steamed wild seabass fillet with longan honey, fennel, and lemongrass "Lon" sauce (THB550)

Moving on to meat dishes. From the curries range, we had slow cooked Australian beef cheek with fresh curry paste, pickled garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and dry spices (Hang Lay Curry) - แกงฮังเลเนื้อแก้มวัวออสเตรเลีย (8/10). As a lover of northern style curry "Hang Lay Curry", I did not hesitate to order this at all. I love the rich flavour but well weighted: the saltiness, the sour, the sweetness, and the spices touch are all there. The texture was thick and fine. The beef was indeed tender. It was also well presented. Oh, almost forget the nutty flavour and texture that brought another dimension to the dish (if I was not mistaken ^^).

Lastly, we had master stock poached organic pork with avocado, red grapefruit, toasted sticky rice, and local Thai flowers  - หมูตุ๋นเสิร์ฟกับอโวคาโด เกรฟฟรุ๊ต ข้าวพอง และดอกไม้ไทย (8/10). This dish was a beautiful one. The poached pork was tender but sweet; a little bit too sweet to my liking actually. But you have to take the pork together with grapefruit, the toasted sticky rice, and avocado. The tanginess of grapefruit cut out some of sweetness whilst sticky rice gave cracked fun texture and avocado added creamy touch. I would say that this a one "should try" dish: wonderful and tasty on its own.

slow cooked Australian beef cheek with fresh curry paste, pickled garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and dry spices (THB480)

one more view of Hang Lay Curry

master stock poached organic pork with avocado, red grapefruit, toasted sticky rice, and local Thai flowers (THB450)

poached organic pork with hang lay curry background

Finally, it is dessert. Though, we were really full, we thought at least we should try one. Without much expectation, we ordered black sticky rice with fresh coconut cream and free range egg custard and coconut ice-cream - สังขยาข้าวเหนียวดำเสิร์ฟกับไอศครีมกะทิ (7/10). It was simply the traditional coconut custard on top of black sticky rice in triangular shape like cake served with coconut ice-cream and coconut milk sauce. Ok, I like this dessert. The classic combination of coconut custard (สังขยา) with soft black stick rice are always all time people favourite.

Well, the overall impression with Paste, for us, is definitely beyond the famous "Bo.Lan @ Sukhumvit 26". Whilst dishes are nice in its own style (though I prefer the aromatic and herbal flavour of Paste), the differences are friendliness and services that come at Paste. We would sure be returning to Paste from time to time (if it does not yet break my wallet). This is a highly recommended restaurant by us "DeadlyChubby" (^.^).

black sticky rice with fresh coconut cream and free range egg custard and coconut ice-cream (THB220)

one more picture with dishes together (^^)

Paste @ Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok
120/6 Soi Sukhumvit 49 (opposite Samitivej Hospital)
Sukhumvit Road
Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
Bangkok 10110
Thailand

Open Hours: lunch from 12:00pm - 02:30pm Wed-Sun and dinner from 06:00pm - 11:00pm Tue-Sun
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