Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Donnhoff Wine Dinner at the Elements @ The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Cuisine: French Food
Price: THB3,250 per person (what I paid for)
Visited: 20 July 2013
Food: 4/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Value for money: 2/10
Services: 6/10

Wine for the night: 9/10

Elements is a fine dining restaurant on 25th floor of The Okura Prestige Bangkok which is inspired by the prestigious 2 Michelin Stars restaurant at Okura Amsterdam, "Ciel Bleu". Personally, this was my first time to visit this restaurant. Upon noticed with the wine dinner of Weingut Donnhoff, I did not hesitate to make a reservation at all, given the high quality of wine selection.

The restaurant is, of course, elegant and charming in the modern style with cosy and relax ambient in rather dark setting. The dining room is rather spacious. There is an open kitchen which is sometimes rather fun watching chef performing. The view of Bangkok through large windows of Elements is rather romantic: this can be one of lovers' choices. The down point is services perhaps. Though staffs are friendly and polite, they seem to be lack of gourmet knowledge and the kind of first impression touches.

Weingut Donnhoff Wine Dinner

cool and modern atmosphere

another crowded night

Upon arrival, I was welcomed with a glass of sparkling wine which was Sekthaus Raumland Cuvee Katharina Brut (89pts). This was crisp and clean with toasty flavour and fine effervescence. It sang rather harmoniously well with the taste of champagne like blanc de noir.

The choices of bread came in various selection but not so impressive in term of palate satisfaction. Amuse bouche of seared tuna and mozzarella was just fine.

Sekthaus Raumland Cuvee Katharina Brut

Choices of bread

amuse bouche

If nothing wrong with my ability to taste, I am certainly sure that tonight food had no match with selection of wine, which were so delightful, at all. Wine ranges were from Weingut Hermann Donnhoff, which is a reputable producer from Nahe, Germany. I am sure, if you are one of riesling fan, you are to be in love with these selection.

The first dish of the 5-courses was Salad of Brittany Lobster (4/10). Overall impression was not memorable given the quality of ingredients. The dehydrated mango did not seem to match well with lobster and the texture of lobster itself was kind of chewy and cold in fact. The pandan-lemongrass vinaigrette was somehow more pleasant.

This first course was matched with Donnhoff Riesling Trocken 2011 (90/100 pts, Alc. 12.5%). This dry riesling was so classic with aroma of lemony citrus and mineral. It appeared in pale straw yellow. On the palate it was light, fresh, and crisp with delicate scent of ripe lemon/tangerine. Well balanced with acidity. So good, it was.

Salad of Brittany Lobster

Donnhoff Riesling Trocken 2011

The soup dish was Chilled Lobster Bisque and Granny Smith Espuma (5/10). Personally, I am such a big fan of lobster bisque. However, this cold lobster bisque was not at all up to the standard for this elegant restaurant: I would expect more from its class. It was not bad in total. The soup was cold as it's said. The texture was thick and too thick and rich for my liking. It was salty too. Granny Smith espuma did not really perform at all.

At least the matching wine was splendid. Donnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett 2011 (91/100 pts, Alc. 10.0%) was an off-dry riesling with delicious and harmonious sweetness of fruits. It had striking but gentle peach and quince on the palate and yet refreshing acidity. It appeared in pale golden yellow with complex spicy as well as floral nose of fruits. I need more of this bottle.

Chilled Lobster Bisque and Granny Smith Espuma

Donnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett 2011

Half way through the night, we were then served with Lemon Ravioli Stuffed with Lobster Claws (5/10). Was this a Chinese dish or was I in an Chinese restaurant, I wondered. Ok, at least the stuffing was delicious and at least it was light and fresh that balanced out the thick flavour of lobster bisque.

For the wine, it was Donnhoff Niedarhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2011 (90/100 pts, Acl. 13.0%). So much potential for this bottle of dry riesling from Donnhoff but it does not just yet reveal its full instinct: a few more years of cellaring. On the nose it was complex with aroma of peach and tropical fruits as well as senses of sea breeze. However, on the palate, Hermannshohle Trocken 2011 did not release its intrinsic just yet. Of course, it was dry and showed some lemony bitterness but not quite elegant. The texture was more dense than the simple Riesling Trocken 2011. This sleeping beauty is still waiting for the right time to wake up. Be patient!!!!!

Lemon Ravioli Stuffed with Lobster Claws

flow of riesling

Donnhoff Niedarhauser Hermannhohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2011

The main course was Roasted Lobster in Citrus Sabayon (3/10). This was probably the worst dish of the night. The texture was too hard, overcooked perhaps. Citrus flavour in creamy texture. The matching of white asparagus was a good idea but the quality was not there.

Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese 2012 (91/100 pts, Acl. 8.5%) was naturally sweet as in typical nature of spatlese. Though the popularity of this site at Kirschheck is not as reputed as the others, it is not less delicious at all. This luminous yellow juice gave ripe fruit flavour of pear and a small hint of lychee but apple aroma on the nose. So deep and so brilliant. Acidity just perfects out the overall texture. Wish I could have more glasses.

Roasted Lobster in Citrus Sabayon

Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese 2012

The dessert was Snickers Peanut Chocolate Bar (4/10) that came along with toffee ice-cream and caramelised apple. Yes, it tasted like snickers. The flavour of toffee ice-cream was pleasurable but texture was icy. Overall, enjoyable but not a small hint of impressive.

The highlight was of the night was actually this one, Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese 2003 (95/100 pts, Acl. 8%). So deep but so bright yellow colour. Perfume of ripe lime and mineral strike on the nose for this late harvest. It was sweet but not overly sweet that cut the throat. Fresher than expected. So gorgeous and remarkable. Elegant and yet creamy on the palate. A fantastic bottle that would go on and on. Cellar a lot if you see them. Raise your glass for this luscious sweety.

Snickers Peanut Chocolate Bar

petit fours

Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese 2003

Donnhoff Wine Dinner at the Elements @ The Okura Prestige Bangkok
Floor 25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok
57 Witthayu Road
Lumphini, Pathumwan
Bangkok 10330

Open Hours: 06:00am - 10:30pm daily

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