Sunday, April 17, 2011

Landhaus Bacher @ Wachau, Austria

Cuisine: Austrian
Price: EUR115 per person without alcohol (what I paid for)
Visited: 2 April 2011
Food: 9/10
Atmosphere: 10/10
Value for money: 9/10
Services: 9/10

During the first 2 weeks of April 2011 we had a chance to visit Austria, Hungary, and Czech. We took this opportunity to visit cafes and restaurants around the areas. Hence, the very next reviews will mostly from outside Thailand.

Landhaus Bacher is a gourmet hotel in the Wachau area of Austria, which is surrounded by beautiful scenery of Danube River, apricot tree farms, and vineyard. This is a small hotel with only 10 lovely rooms and a famously known restaurant, in which the cooking team is led by Lisl Wagner-Bacher and son-in-law Thomas Dorfer. The dining room is decorated to be cosy, elegant while maintaining country style: the fireplace, the bookshelves, the wallpaper, every details are lovely. During Summer, a choice of garden, which is beautiful, romantic and unique, can also be enjoy. For convenience, a car would be crucial to travel here.

Landhaus Bacher Geniesser Hotel

The Dining Room

The Menu

Firstly, we were greeted with some complementary from the kitchen. Potato with Scrambled Egg and Caviar was feature like in both texture and taste. This might look like a normal dish but hidden with complexity (8/10).
Marshmallow with Spring Garlic: another light bite for the start, giving refresh and relief feeling (8/10).
Sour Cream Soup with Beef Tartar and Cucumber: Very smooth soup with scent of sour cream combined with savoury beef tartar which was sweet and tender (9/10).

Potato with Scrambled Egg and Caviar

Marshmallow with Spring Garlic

Sour Cream Soup with Beef Tartar and Cucumber

Moreover, there were choices of freshly baked bread to be picked from a basket. This was to be eaten with butter or fresh cheese butter and dill.

Kipferl and Kaisersemmel


Fresh Cheese Butter with Dill

Our first of the two appetisers was Warm Marinated Lake Trout (Laxn) and Crayfishes with Sliced Radish, Cream of Elderflower, Apple-ricotta and Grape Seed Oil. Wonderful texture of trout and crayfishes in a beautiful presentation as well as resembling the feeling of nature. An amazing experience from this dish (9/10).
Praline of Goose Liver with Black Nut, Elster-apple, Sweet-wine Jelly, and Brioche: I just felt in love with this dish. The pate had silky texture. Sweet-wine jelly was ridiculously delightful. A small scoop of peanut ice-cream went well with other items, as well as brioche which was buttery and soft (10/10).

Warm Marinated Lake Trout (Laxn) and Crayfishes

Praline of Goose Liver

Inside View of Praline of Goose Liver

For the first course, we had Neusiedlersee Catfish with Lightly Smoked Sweet Pepper, Gabbage, Green Mustard and Neusetzer Speck. Peppery scent led the taste of this dish. Though it was well cooked and prepared, it was not to my like personally (7/10).
This was followed by Ramsauer Char with Roasted Cauliflower, Parsley Stock, Scrambled Egg, and Butter-Breadcrumbs. Egg was prepared perfectly with expertise in the way that was not soft nor hard while char was really smooth so that it was easily swallowed down the throat. What fantastic was cauliflower with breadcrumbs which were tasteful and pleasant. To me, this dish was let down by only too light flavour (8/10).

Neusiedlersee Catfish

Ramsauer Char

Coming to second course, the legendary Tafelspitzraviolo with Spinach, Cream of Horseradish, Warm Cider Jelly and Daikon Cress was served. Every details of the dish were well organised. Cider jelly was sweet and enjoyable, this executed supremely well with creamy sauce of horseradish. The ravioli was tender (9/10).
Next was Glazed Sweet Bread with Creamy Kohlrabi, Peas and Parmesan Makkaroni. A simply delicious dish of sweet bread with hint of emotion from the garden it is. I like it (9/10).


Glazed Sweet Bread

For the main course, Fillet of Veal and Stuffed Breasted of Veal with Cream of Sweet Corn, Roasted Joung Corn and Perigord Truffles was presented. An innovative cream of sweet corn to go with tender piece of veal. A good dish for the Spring season indeed (8/10).
Grilled Limousin-Lamb, Onions, Shallots, Dried Tomatoes, Candles Amalfi-Lemon, and Crispy Potatoes was another main course. It may not be as great as those first and second courses but still maintained high quality. Lamb was crisp on the outer layer. Gravy was a little sweet (8/10).

Fillet of Veal and Stuffed Breasted of Veal

Grilled Limousin-Lamb, Onions, Shallots

Desserts were surely the real highlight of this meal. Mohr im Hemd 2010 with Chocolate Foam, Kakao-almonds and Milk Ice-cream was first of the two. Richy richy fondant-like in chocolate flavour came with heart-melted ice-cream. This was a typical Austrian dish that had taste of heaven to me (10/10).
Pickled Williams-Pear with Peanut Butter Ice-cream, Caramel Cream and White Chocolate Powder was the other. Top class pear with perfect sweetness of caramel cream and white chocolate powder was a pleasure (10/10).

Mohr im Hemd 2010

Pickled Williams-Pear

To end the meal, a set of Petits Fours was generously served. It contained Coconut Macaron, Orange Cream, Apricot Marshmallow, Selection of Truffle, Crackers, and Orange Juice with Cream Foam.

Petit Four

For those of cheese lovers, many selections of cheese from the trolley can also be ordered. Definitely, all of which are of high quality with unique taste.

Cheese from the Trolley

Not to mention the awards they have received, this gourmet hotel of Wachau is surely a place worth a visit for both local and foreigner. Rare and delicious food with high quality services in a beautiful surrounding. It is surely hard to deny the quality of this Haute Cuisine. Be sure to make reservation in advance and bear in mind that the restaurant annually close for sometime during January and February to avoid disappointment. Lisl Wagner-Bacher also herself gives cooking classes every Thursday and Friday with knowledge from professional side to be shared. Having a chance to go by Wachau, then do not miss out Landhaus Bacher: highly recommended experience.

Landhaus Bacher @ Wachau, Austria
Sudtirolerplatz 2
A-3512 Mautern / Wachau

Open Hours: 11:30am - 01:30pm for lunch and 06:00pm - 09:00pm for dinner between Wednesday and Saturday, and 11:30am - 09:00pm for Sunday
Tel: +43 (0) 2 732 82 937

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