Showing posts with label british food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label british food. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

The Whitebrook Restaurant and Rooms @ Monmouthshire, Wales

Cuisine: British
Charged Price: GBP50 per person
Visited: 28 June 2015
Food: 8/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Value for money: 8/10
Services: 9/10
Scale: [1=poor ---- 5=average/standard ---- 10=outstanding/exceptional]

I am usually one who enjoys experiencing and dining in a unique restaurant out of city where it is less crowded and less well-known. The Whitebrook near Monmouth is another interesting one in Wales. It offers both excellent dining experience and calm environment. Personally, I felt that this is a wonderful place to visit in Wales. Food was crafted with care and service was friendly and attentive. The Whitebrook is not just a restaurant in countryside but it is as well a boutique hotel. I would say it should be nice staying at The Whitebrook if you are going to be in the area. Trekking, relaxing, and visiting farms around the area should be a wonderful break.

Walking into the restaurant, we were firstly welcome at the reception area where small bites and aperitif could be enjoyed. Once the table had been prepared, we were introduced to the table. The Whitebrook is just a small restaurants with about 5 tables each in two connected rooms. Though it is just a small place, each table is arranged with comfortable gap. The place is decorated neatly in white tone, yet opulent. The kind of cuisine here is rather classic with many ingredients can be found locally. Wine list is appropriately extensive. It is arranged in character types rather by region. As for the marked up, I would say it is moderately high: around 2 - 3 times retail price.

The Whitebrook Restaurant and Rooms @ Monmouthshire, Wales

beautiful restaurant and hotel in mountain

cosy reception

plain but nice dining room

For Sunday lunch, it was priced at GBP35.00 for a 3-courses meal (3 choices for each course). The meal kicked off with a small portion of amuse bouche (9/10). It was velvety carrot mousse topped with sweet, fresh, and crisp shaves of carrot. There was also chicken crisp that boosted contrast on the palate. The final touch was radish flowers that gave spices touch. As for bread, there were two choices of in-house made: white and brown. Both were delicious with soft touch.

small bites while waiting to be seated


amuse bouche

For the first course, we went for Asparagus Mousse, Monmouthshire Ham, Young Herbs & Flowers (8/10) and Goat's Cheese Fondant, Beetroot, Rye, Walnuts (8/10). The asparagus mousse was really tender and soft on the bite. The other vegetable components on the plate gave crispiness and freshness of the forest. Monmouthshire ham, on the other hand, brought balance with rich taste to the dish. To pair with this dish, I had asked the sommelier for an opinion and Trimbach Muscat Reserve 2013 (89/100, GBP8.75 per glass) was the choice. It is an unoaked dry muscat with highly perfumed character. On the palate, it showed bright acid and minerality with citrus notes. Nice one with asparagus. For goat cheese, its character was totally opposite of the asparagus dish. It was rich but tender. I like the way beetroots balanced out the heavy structure of goat cheese. In my opinion, a glass of sweet wine would go nicely with this rich starter.

Asparagus Mousse, Monmouthshire Ham, Young Herbs & Flowers

Goat's Cheese Fondant, Beetroot, Rye, Walnuts

Trimbach Muscat Reserve 2013

Moving on to main courses, I had Huntsham Farm Suckling Pig, Potato Puree, Turnip, Beer Pickled Onion (8/10) whilst Deadly Bunny had Ryeland Lamb, Hotpot Potato, Violet Artichoke, Orache (9/10). They both were excellent but lamb dish was a bit finer. The overall picture of suckling pig was lovely and enjoyable with fresh and crisp turnip and sweet beer pickled onion that matched opulent and rich suckling pig well. Croquet was, in contrast, crisp and complex. Mashed potato alongside was wonderfully smooth and creamy. The missing point for me was a touch of over saltiness and a little bit overcooked of suckling, even though it was tender and juicy.

For lamb, it was rich and classic. It was just so tender and juicy such that meat came off easily with just a light touch of fork. The grilled artichoke and potato were great matches. Orache gave the unique flavour to the dish. To me, it felt like pak meang or gnetum gnenom which can be locally found in the southern part of Thailand. The chosen red wine for the main course was Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Red Blend 2012 (88/100, GBP8.75 per glass). This is a blend of Cinsault, Shiraz , Grenache, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinotage. It was fresh with layers of black fruits and spices. Secateurs 2012 is medium-full on the body and is ready for drinking now. A nice table wine, I would say.

Huntsham Farm Suckling Pig, Potato Puree, Turnip, Beer Pickled Onion

Ryeland Lamb, Hotpot Potato, Violet Artichoke, Orache

Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Red Blend 2012

Just before the final course, a small portion of pre-dessert was served: Velvet Parfait (10/10). It was such a highly perfumed ice-cream of violet flowers: so creamy and smooth. It was served along with elderflower meringue and rose jelly. It was another "love at first bit" for me.

For finale, two different characters of dessert were picked. One was Lemon, Apple Fizz, Elderflower Tintern Mead (9/10) and the other was Local Strawberries, Woodland Sorrel, Oats, Caramelised Almonds (9/10). The lemon mousse was almost perfect. So soft on the touch and yet creamy. Citrus note of lemon paired simultaneously with apple compote and freshness of elderflower. It was like I was walking in a spring garden on a good warm day. On the other hand, the strawberry dessert was more punchy with crunchiness of caramelised almond, smooth sorrel ice-cream, and fresh strawberry. It was more like walking in a forest during a mild shower day for this dish. Anyway, both were fabulous.

Lastly, a small bites of nettle macaron was brought to end the meal. Needless to say much, this is a place to return for me. If I have a chance to be back in the area, I would not hesitate making my journey to The Whitebrook at all. By the way, it can be a bit tedious reaching The Whitebrook. I would suggest lunch time meal rather than dinner if you are not staying around the place as you will need to drive for sure. Roads around the place are narrow and are dark in the evening.

Velvet Parfait

Lemon, Apple Fizz, Elderflower Tintern Mead

Local Strawberries, Woodland Sorrel, Oats, Caramelised Almonds


The Whitebrook Restaurant and Rooms @ Monmouthshire, Wales
Whitebrook (near Monmouth)
Monmouthshire
NP25 4TX
Wales
United Kingdom

Open Hours: daily except Monday from 12:00pm - 02:00pm for lunch and 07:00pm - 09:00pm for dinner

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

L'Enclume @ Cartmel, United Kingdom

Cuisine: British
Charged Price: GBP55 per person
Visited: 25 June 2015
Food: 9/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Value for money: 8/10
Services: 8/10
Scale: [1=poor ---- 5=average/standard ---- 10=outstanding/exceptional]

L'Enclume at Cartmel, which is in Lake District area and not far from Windermere, is definitely a place worth detour if you happen to be in the area. Cartmel is a historic small village and L'Enclume is an old house converted into restaurant headed by Chef Simon Rogan. Within the dining hall, clients can still feel the touch of original structure whilst the relaxed contemporary additional decoration provides comfortable environment. I love the fact that there is a small part which can accommodate around 5 tables in the glasshouse overlooking the garden of L'Enclume: pretty relax indeed.

What I would like to emphasise further is that L'Enclume in Cartmel is not just a destination for dining. The village itself is also beautiful. A slow walk around the village before or after a meal there is not a bad idea at all. In addition, service here is as wonderful as its environment. Staffs were friendly and attentive. As for knowledge wise, they were pretty much clear about explanation of each dish.

L'Enclume @ Cartmel, United Kingdom

the old building on Cavendish Street of L'Enclume

converted contemporary interior

seats in the glasshouse

L'Enclume may be a destination for British food. However, dishes are not quite classical, there are modern technique and twist incorporated in each dish. The restaurant also owns an organic farm within a close range which provides vegetable for the restaurant.

During the meal, in-house sourdough was the bread of the meal. It was nice as in good standard sourdough. The nice twist is that it was served along butter and pork fat. Yes, pork fat. Flavourful indeed. I have to say that this is a nice little touch. If you ever use pork fat to stir-fry vegetable, you will realise the difference in the taste. We often use pork fat in the family and I love it.

For wine list, the range is quite wide with moderate marked up. Some are priced at higher multiple whilst some are in acceptable range. During the meal, I went for wine by glass instead with one on white and one on red. The price for wine by glass is usually of course more expensive but there are interesting ones to try. For white wine, I had Domaine des Huards Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Francois 1er Vieille Vignes 2009 (90/100) at the price of GBP8.00 per glass. This is an organic and biodynamic wine produced from Romorantin grape. It showed excellent apricot, peach, and honey notes with mild peppery touch. Medium body on the structure. Lively, refreshing, and delicate. A wonderful Romorantin wine from Cour-Cheverny in Loire, it is. Pretty nice table wine that is worth stocking up if you could find in market. 

To follow the organic and biodynamic range of white wine, I chose to go for Domaine Genoux Chateau de Merande La Belle Romaine 2012 (89/100), at GBP9.00 per glass, for red wine. This is a 100% Mondeuse Noire, which is a rare ancient red grape from the region of Savoie Arbin in France. It was light ruby in colour like those of young Pinot Noir. The present of tar, spices, and ripe red fruits aroma were lovely. Medium on the body with fine tannins grain. I believe it is accessible young. Another nice table wine. 

sourdough with butter and pork fat

Domaine des Huards Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Francois 1er VV 2009

Domaine Genoux Chateau de Merande La Belle Romaine 2012

At L'Enclume, you can forget the typical a la carte choices. There are only tasting menus here. During lunch time, they also provide less courses choice. As in my case, the 6-course lunch was priced at GBP45.00 per head. You may choose for higher level which should be around 15 courses more or less depending on the day.

The first course was Cod 'yolk' with Pea Shoot, Salt and Vinegar (8/10). It was creamy and fatty with crunchy texture of pea shoot which was fresh indeed. Flavour was fairly subtle but just a bit too much on saltiness. It was then followed by Salt Baked Carrot, Westcombe, Cured Pork and Savoury (9/10). This was one of my favourite dish of the meal. It was a very very carrot dish. Carrot soup was being poured onto below grilled carrots. This small bite dish was coupled along with starchy texture ball and cured pork. The sweetness of carrots balanced well with saltiness of cured pork.

Cod 'yolk' with Pea Shoot, Salt and Vinegar

Salt Baked Carrot, Westcombe, Cured Pork and Savoury

The last one for the first half was Short Horn, Charcoal Oil, Mustard, Apple and Celeriac (10/10). Hey, this was an excellent beef tartare. It was lean but tender. The perfume of charcoal oil was wonderful. Mustard was light and paired perfectly with celeriac.

Short Horn, Charcoal Oil, Mustard, Apple and Celeriac

The final course of savoury was being guinea fowl: Guinea Fowl, Broad Beans, Beetroot and Blackberry Vinegar (9/10). Fowl is typically not my kind of preferred ingredient. However, Simon Rogan and the team made it deliciously. The texture was tender and juicy. The pate served along with added even more flavour to the dish. Sweetness of beetroot, beetroot puree, and blackberry vinegar added complexity to the picture. The last touch of broad beans gave the firmer texture. Brilliant.

Guinea Fowl, Broad Beans, Beetroot and Blackberry Vinegar

For the last two dishes, they were dessert. The first one was lighter and fresher: Almond, Pear, Caramel (10/10), whilst the second one was more fulfilling: Yogurt, Rhubarb, Sorrel and Flowers (9/10). The almond and pear was my kind of dessert. The almond was a creamy ice-cream whilst pear was fine granita. The burnt caramel in contrast provided both texture, aroma, and taste differently. Minor details were then almond flakes and pear pieces. Tremendous dish, it was. For the last one, it was just so beautiful. The overall impression was like having yoghurt with musli for breakfast but a superb light breakfast. Yoghurt mousse was well prepared and balanced out with rhubarb compote and granita which were sweet and sour. Some might dislike rhubarb but trust me, you can forget the old story of yours. The refreshing aroma of flowers was from the restaurant's organic farm.

In brief, this is a must visit restaurant in Lake District. Don't miss it.

Almond, Pear, Caramel

Yogurt, Rhubarb, Sorrel and Flowers

L'Enclume @ Cartmel, United Kingdom
Cavendish Street
Cartmel
Grange-over-Sand
Cumbria, LA11 6PZ
United Kingdom

Open Hours: daily from 12:00pm - 01:30pm for lunch (except Monday) and 06:30pm - 09:00pm for dinner
Tel: +44 (0) 153 953 6362
Webhttp://www.lenclume.co.uk/

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal @ Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London

Cuisine: British
Charged Price: GBP90 per person
Visited: 21 June 2015
Food: 7/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Value for money: 3/10
Services: 7/10
Scale: [1=poor ---- 5=average/standard ---- 10=outstanding/exceptional]

The celebrated and world-known restaurant "Dinner by Heston Blumenthal", headed by Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts, is definitely a big fame of Knightsbridge since its debut in 2011: gained its Michelin Stars within a year of opening. It is located within Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park with an arrangement of atmosphere in contemporary. It is quite comfortable with each table being spaced rather well. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is indeed really famous and especially after its entry in top 10 of The World's 50 Best Restaurants. At the time I was there, all seats were fully packed.

The idea of this place is to bring back British old recipe but in the culinary sense of modern day. It is not the kind of eccentric like The Fat Duck but just some touches of modern twist. In term of price tag, it is undoubtedly expensive. For a 3 courses meal, you can expect to pay around GBP80 each (including service charge of 12.5%) and more if you are into wine. The wine list is extensive but all are at hefty marked up. I would say it is around 3-4 times retail price. Even with the more expensive ones in the list, there seems to be no mercy. The style of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is in a la carte mode with no tasting menu like in other fine dining venues. However, 3-courses set lunch is available during weekdays.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal @ Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London

contemporary dining room

classic sourdough

For bread, there is only one type being offered: sourdough. It was nice but not special. During the meal, we had a bottle of Esprit de Pavie 2010 (90/100) along the meal. It's a Bordeaux blend with Merlot as the key blend and addition of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The price was set back around GBP35, cannot remember the exact figure (T.T)", whilst the retail price is around GBP12. It was a nice one and enjoyable with primary character of merlot fruits.

Let's move on to the first course. I had Rice & Flesh: saffron, calf tail and red wine (9/10), c. 1390, for starter. Just to notice that each menu is given the historic date when the dish was inspired. For instance, it is approx. year 1390 for Rice & Flesh. Rice & Flesh was deliciously prepared. Risotto rice was well cooked: structure was al dente, rich on the palate, coupling with fresh aroma of saffron. The calf tail was juicy and tender. It was flavourful and paired really well with the rice. An excellent dish, it was. Just a little too salty to my liking, otherwise almost perfect.

Rice & Flesh: saffron, calf tail and red wine (GBP17.50)

Moving on to main course. I had Powdered Duck Breast: smoked confit fennel, spiced blood pudding, and umbles (8/10) c. 1670. Duck breast was nice and pink. Tender and soft on the touch. Blood pudding was nice and delicious: smooth and rich, not the kind of black pudding you might dislike. Vegetables on the side balanced out the overall flavour. To me, it was a nice dish but not amazing just yet.

Powdered Duck Breast: smoked confit fennel, spiced blood pudding, and umbles (GBP36)

Lastly, it was Tipsy Cake: spit roast pineapple (6/10) c. 1810 for dessert. I have to say that this was enjoyable but did not quite touch my heart. The sherry / brandy soaked sponge cake was wonderful. It was served along with roasted pineapple. When dining in the restaurant, you can clearly see the pineapple being slowly roasted in the kitchen. Yes, the acidity of pineapple matched naturally with the cake. Nevertheless, it was too so-so for me. It lacks the wow factor on my palate perhaps.

Personally, I find Dinner by Heston Blumenthal a restaurant with well preparation. Dishes were pleasant but some still not quite there, especially dessert range: the other dessert we had was not our type at all, we did not even finish it. As for service, staffs know what they are doing well. Well, for this price tag, I wouldn't find it attractive at all. I did not say it was not nice but the downside is value for money. Just an experience is more than enough for this fine dining venue in Knightsbridge. Additionally, as said things are well prepared with due care here but top 10 in the world as claimed by The World's 50 Best Restaurants, I do have to disagree with this point.

Tipsy Cake: spit roast pineapple (GBP14.50)

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal @ Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
66 Knightsbridge
London
SW1X 7LA
United Kingdom

Open Hours: daily from 12:00pm - 02:30pm for lunch and 06:30pm - 10:30pm for dinner
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